The science and magic behind the chair

Colouring hair might seem simple.
Squeeze a tube, pour the developer, mix the colour… done, right?

Well, not quite. There’s a lot more behind the scenes than most people realise.

When I create a colour for a client, it always begins with a thorough consultation. We chat about home care, whether you’d like grey coverage, grey blending, or a fashion result, and if you want your hair lighter, brighter, or darker. I also ask about your expectations because your goals guide how I formulate.

It might feel like a lot of questions, but every one of them has a purpose. Here’s why:

Grey Cover vs. Grey Blending

• Grey cover: Completely hides white/grey hairs using a low-ammonia permanent colour. It gives a solid, uniform look. The downside? Regrowth can appear dramatic if you have a higher percentage of grey or naturally dark hair, meaning you’ll likely need more frequent visits.
• Grey blending: Softens and tones grey/white hairs so they look sun-kissed and natural. I achieve this with an ammonia-free permanent or a demi-permanent colour. The result is softer, more natural regrowth and often a longer stretch between appointments.

Going Brighter or Lighter

To lighten hair beyond your natural shade, you’ll need permanent colour (low-ammonia or ammonia-free) or bleach.

• Permanent colour can lift and deposit, giving you options without bleach.
• Bleach allows for bright blondes and vivid shades, depending on your goals.

Whichever route you take, I always discuss home care to keep your hair healthy and your colour vibrant.

Going Darker

When darkening hair, I usually recommend a demi-permanent colour. Why? Permanent colours swell the cuticle, which can lead to porosity issues and quicker fading. Demi-permanent shades fade more softly and are less likely to turn brassy because they deposit pigment without aggressive lifting. They also leave the hair in better overall condition.

The Science Bit (Made Simple)

• Permanent colour: Uses an alkalising agent (ammonia or MEA) to swell the cuticle, allowing colour molecules to penetrate and lock in. This process also exposes underlying warmth, which is why conditioner or treatments are so important afterwards (and at home!).
• Demi-permanent colour: Works differently. It doesn’t swell the cuticle, so it can’t lighten hair but it does keep the hair healthier and the colour fades more naturally, with less brassiness between visits. For many clients, demi is my first choice (especially with higher levels of grey/white).

Hair colour isn’t just about mixing and applying it’s a balance of science, artistry, and understanding your lifestyle. That’s why consultations matter: so your hair looks good not just today, but weeks down the track too.